Dealing With Repair Mode In Windows 11 UPDATE!: an article of repentance and resolution by GF Willmetts.

**This is an update. If you’ve read this piece before, then go to the end of the article for he extra.**

My editorial or article about how much software can do the same functions with different commands when something isn’t working changed this month when I had a different problem.

Being unable to get at my desktop backup computer, called BUP from now on, as BUC sounds like a rude word or airline, due to the tendon damage to my right hand, there was a necessity to run the late Windows 11 updates. When Windows 11 booted up, one of the other software items requested an update. It turned out to be a harmless update. The only issue was that a reboot caused the BUP to enter repair mode, a feature I had never encountered or read about before, and there was no way to interrupt it. My main laptop was downloading Windows from the satellite in the sky, but there was little information about what was happening. Fair enough. Without Windows, the BUP would not function at all, leaving me with no choice but to observe and wait. When it did finally reboot after a couple of hours, all my partitions with backup files were wiped, and only one active partition with a fresh W11 and some minor files it had stored in the cloud remained.

Let’s take a moment to reminisce about the past. When I first bought this Dell desktop computer over a dozen or more years back, I was on a tight budget when I bought it. I had a look under the hood shortly after getting it, curious why it was so quiet. It had a massive box around the CPUs to keep the heat down and little space for a second optical drive. It was only bought to keep backup files on, and when the time came, it was a means to select my main computer as well as stay online to do my work with SFC. So I made enough partitions to match the laptop. I was surprised that it didn’t affect my primary computer, which I now refer to as the laptop.

Don’t Let the Same Problem Happen a Second Time

I also needed an alternative, just in case it happened again. I needed to secure the backup files, which required installing a second external drive in a space-constrained interior. On its side, there was a spot on the edge of the motherboard, which, when upright, the second internal drive would be resting against the transformer. We wouldn’t move it often, so there wouldn’t be any issues. Should you need to add a second internal drive, please consider all options for securing it properly inside a desktop computer before resorting to my compromise.

Why I don’t like using SSDs regularly.

Something else I need to point out is I don’t really like solid-state drives (SSDs for those who like initials). I have a few auxiliary SSD spinning drives to store information, but I don’t use them every day, so they are less inclined to wear out. I used a flash drive for several years, witnessed its wear and tear, and almost lost all my working files before I realised what was about to happen. SSDs don’t last, no matter how much the manufacturers say they have improved them.

An SSD’s wear and tear depends on usage, not data storage. When you’re using them regularly daily, the number of times Windows consults the internal drive is likely to wear it out faster. You might find them booting up Windows faster, but the rest of the speed is still atypical. I prepped a neighbour’s new computer a couple of years ago, so it isn’t as though I’ve never tried an SSD-driven laptop. I warned her to back up important files regularly because when SSDs break down, there is no way to retrieve them. Yes, there is cloud storage, but you still have to decide how much you store there. You could also plug in an auxiliary external drive, although I would hesitate to use an SSD for continual backup for a similar reason. If you plan to have backups, it might be worth considering storing them in a different location from your primary storage. After all, they could also develop the same problem.

I haven’t checked other computer companies, but a look over Dell’s computers and their laptops comes in two categories. The more expensive laptops have twin SSDs, keeping a spare copy of the primary internal drive. Presumably, when it goes, you can put a replacement SSD in, assuming the laptop lasts that long. If you can afford to, replacing the SSD is the better option. If anything, it does show the lack of faith, even if they want their laptops as thin as possible. Interestingly, you can still purchase Dell’s desktop computers with a standard optical drive or, for those who prefer, an HDD. For the record, my current laptop was an expensive custom job when I bought it a few years back with HDDs, not SSDs, and a lifespan of 10 years. If I had a power cut, then I wouldn’t lose anything I was working on. Generally, laptops in regular use don’t last longer than 3–4 years, which is presumably the same lifespan as an SSD. Using the cloud as a backup can help preserve data, provided you save to it regularly. I suspect that is why computer manufacturers haven’t been that bothered about the SSD running out. Plans are afoot to supersede SSDs with a recordable DVD or Blu-ray-like disc that won’t have similar problems. I hope that’s not too far away.

Hard Drive

Hard disc drives are dropping in price relative to how many GBs they have now, so I got a decently priced first-hand 2GB one. When it comes to important material, exercise caution when using second-hand HDDs and especially SSDs, as it’s difficult to determine their level of use. In the meantime, I transferred all my files from my laptop onto my backup auxiliary SSD just to be cautious. The move was a wise decision, as even with a Tccmebius Hard Drive Docking Station (if you own one similar to mine), I could partition it using Disc Management, but the File Manager wouldn’t recognise it. Using the BUP computer, I channelled the SSD files onto the new HDD when it arrived—all neatly partitioned. The software itself would be going onto the BUP computer once I defragmented and made a couple of partitions.

The HDD has a couple of cable sockets; the power one is 15 pins, and the PWR or power socket on the motherboard has a mini-6 pin. The digital one has 7 pins and neatly fits into another 7-pin on the motherboard. Looking this up online, several websites got it the wrong way around. Think logically about this. Why would the digital connector need 15 pins? The same probably applies to why you would need so many pins for a power cable, but presumably it’s feeding different parts of the mechanical drive.

Cable Drive

You would think getting these cables would be easy. Nope! A combined lead for both sockets has the power lead ending in a large 4-pin, but no adapter is available. This resulted in the need to search for two separate cables. The 7-pin red data cable is pretty easy to get, but the 15-pin power cable has several choices, let alone connectors to the motherboard. A couple of websites explain the various cables but do not give names to identify them, and there was a wad of photos to go through trying to find the right ones. In the meantime, while finding the right cables, I had also bought a separate HDD caddy so I could start installing the software into a partition rather than into the C:/ partition when possible from the downloads directory. After all, if I couldn’t find the right cables, this had to be my alternative. Hope you people followed my advice from years ago and keep a diary log of what you do with your computers. You can store a backup of your purchased programs, but they still require the passcodes to function properly.

I finally found the power cable with the right 6-pin socket and could now put the HDD inside the desktop computer at long last. I would like to express my gratitude to the boss for his suggestion to consider multi-socket cables instead of disregarding them. Despite my doubts, I plan to install a third hard drive within the system. A little question about where a spare power socket can be its own backup.

All In Lettering Each Partition

I have successfully booted up and am ready to proceed. I should point out that for the second hard drive, I identified each partition with a letter and number, i.e., A1, B1, E1, etc. You’ll note I didn’t use C1 or D1 because of associations with the C:/ partition when Windows lies and D is normally reserved for DVD drives. No sense getting into a position where you could be confused with what’s on the primary internal drive. When in the computer, they’d be given different primary lettering as well to follow what is on the primary internal drive. You might well end up giving each partition its own name depending on content. I haven’t gotten that far yet. Your own lettering is more likely to match your original computer, so it’s simply a convenience when you transfer updates into it.

A quick checklist that depends on the text above

Here’s a checklist of things to check for adding a second optical drive to your desktop computer. This can be HDD or SSD:

1. Look at the motherboard. There should be at least one spare socket, with either a red or blue cable going into the sockets next to it. These are generally 7-pin sockets. Along the motherboard edge, there should be a PWR socket named as such. Observe the number of pins and their arrangement. This one is bound to vary a lot from motherboard to motherboard, judging by the number of different power cables there are; hence, I’m not identifying my own motherboard.
2. Why are you looking for space for a second hard drive? Well, you can’t do much unless you can identify sockets and the cable distance. If there’s a suitable space or there’s already one in there, you can buy a frame to secure it properly inside the computer and choose it to match the size of the second or even the first one in the same frame. If not, you’ll probably have to do the same as I did. DO NOT put it above a DVD drive, which could fit an SSD, because that cools it.
3. • You are buying your second hard drive. Pay attention to its sockets. Whether it’s HDD or SSD, the digital red or blue cable is likely to be a 7-pin. For HDDs, the power cable plug should be 15 pins. This might vary with SSD.
4. Buy the aforementioned cables at the same time. Purchase the red or blue cables in the form of bent-over sockets for the internal drive. The latter conserves space. Check the length of the cable. The red or blue cables are available in a shorter length; the one in the photograph is actually one of those. Fortunately, I had a longer red bent-over cable, or it wouldn’t have reached.
5. Connect the cables to the HDD or SSD. Put in position and connect the other cables to the right ports. Close the computer and put the power cable back in its socket.
6. Turn it on and let your software identify your second hard drive.
7. If you can avoid what I did in the text above or if you have to do it my way, the following will apply to either computer. If you are using Windows 11, navigate to the Control Panel, select Windows Tools, and then select Disc Management. The second hard disc should be easy to identify and partition. If you want a shortcut to ‘Disc Management,’ just put those two words in the Control Panel Search box.
8. How do you size your partitions? 200 GB = 204800 MB If you are aware of this, you can calculate the following formula:-

 

The size of partition you want * 204800        =          how many megabytes

200

 

Example to create a 150gB partition:-

            150mB * 204800                                            =          153600mB

200

I think the most important lesson is don’t leave it too long between Windows updates as this is the only thing I’ve done differently in the many years I’ve had computers.

I’m hoping none of you encounter this repair mode, so back all your important files and directories regularly. I tend to have one main directory with a lot of sub-directories for my most important stuff and will be making back-ups more regularly.

As this is a technical briefing to help you people out, feel free to download and hardcopy. You might not be able to reach it if it happens to your computer.

GF Willmetts

February 2025

Up-Date
You made it this far. I’ve made some improvements which has made it possible to move the auxiliary hard drive into a better position and away from the motherboard. Although the method above still works and might have to be used if you have a slimline desktop computer. The real stumbling block are the power and data cables. I looked again at the cables connecting the primary hard drive and they are bent over or set at 90 degrees. If you add this information to your criteria when looking for these cables you might find better choices. I can now understand why the blue data cable is chosen because it comes bent-over. The red data cable doesn’t appear to come that way.

Although I hope you look for suitable cables, for those who want to emulate:-

Power cable bent-over with a 6-point plug: B-11-08-0305
SATA blue data-cable: X-SATA020-030B

The photos here show the blue data cable and the new placement of the second hard drive. There’s a cable hook inside my desktop compute where you can lock the cables to be tidy and the photo shows it before I put the SATA cable in it.
Although I haven’t screwed the second hard drive into position, it’s a snug fit. If you can find a way to get that side off the computer, then you can screw it in but how often do you move your desktop computer around?
Hope you find this useful.

GF Willmetts
April 2025